MEN’S HEALTH

UNDERSTANDING MALE SKIN

Dr Ginni Mansberg explains how clinicians can understand and address male skin

On 2019, men underwent 1.1 million minimally invasive cosmetic treatments. Men are increasingly recognising the significance of skincare in enhancing both the health and appearance of their skin.1 So knowing how to discuss male skin with your clients is critical in today’s clinical realm.

DIFFERENCES IN MALE SKIN

Male skin is mainly affected by androgens such as testosterone.2 Male skin is thicker, oilier and more vascular. Dermal thickness is approximately 10–20% greater in men.3 This provides a firmer baseline, but when ageing becomes visible, it tends to be more abrup.4

Sebum production is a defining feature. Men consistently demonstrate higher sebum output and larger pore size, due to testosterone.5 Clinically, this can translate into persistent concerns with congestion, and acne well into midlife.7

Shaving exposes skin to UV radiation and can cause irritation, razor burn, and pseudofolliculitis barbae.1

Irritation from a combination of shaving8 , environmental exposure9 and poor skincare habits4 often results in subclinical inflammation and barrier disruption. Testosterone influences skin physiology, resulting in slower wound healing and reduced re-epithelialisation rates in men.1

Pigmentation also differs. When men do get melasma or other pigmentation issues, it is more likely to be epidermal than dermal.11

Ageing patterns diverge too. Men develop deeper wrinkles, and often present later, when changes are more advanced.

Women have a higher pH value.12 This lower pH yields a better skin barrier function, moisturisation and less scaling. An acidic skin pH retains beneficial bacteria, while an alkaline pH leads to dysbiosis.13

And then there’s behaviour: less sunscreen, less skincare, more UV exposure.

WHAT THIS MEANS IN THE CLINIC

A 2010 comparative study found that men devote only seven minutes less to their appearance than women.1

Men need to be reminded of the importance of daily sunscreen use.14 Encourage using broad spectrum (UVA/ UVB) sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, SPF15 or higher.15

Shaving is essentially daily micro-exfoliation, so timing moisturiser application for after shaving helps support barrier repair and can help prevent dermatitis and folliculitis.16

IMPLICATIONS FOR SKINCARE

Cleanse without compromise

Given higher sebum levels, effective cleansing is essential, but without stripping the barrier.17 A low-pH, barrier-supportive cleanser removes excess oil, maintaining skin integrity.17

Control oil and inflammation early

Niacinamide helps regulate sebum, reduce inflammation and improve barrier function.

Retinoids: underused, overdelivering

Increased thickness and collagen density, often tolerates vitamin A. Retinaldehyde's address photoaging, acne and texture.

Target congestion and texture

Given the prevalence of enlarged pores and congestion, chemical exfoliation plays an important role. AHAs rejuvenate skin by triggering cell turnover, increasing collagen and elastin, and improving texture and glow.20

Don’t forget the barrier

Moisturisers with lightweight consistency offering hydration with barrier-repair ingredients, such as ceramides, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are ideal.21

IN CLINIC PROCEDURES

Men have greater facial muscle mass in addition to thicker skin, higher sebaceous activity and increased vascularity, which have direct implications for treatment planning.22 These features contribute to deeper dynamic rhytids and a higher risk of bruising or bleeding with injectables, while also allowing tolerance of more aggressive protocols.22

Male facial anatomy differs significantly and aesthetic interventions must prioritise preservation of masculine features.22 Technique considerations are especially critical with injectables and energy-based devices. Men require more injection sites and higher doses of neuromodulators due to larger foreheads and stronger musculature, but careful placement is essential to avoid brow ptosis or unwanted arching.22 Similarly, dermal filler placement should favour the lateral face.22

Behaviourally, men tend to prefer subtle improvements, are less tolerant of downtime, and are more likely to opt for single, staged treatments.22 This makes conservative treatment plans and proactive management of post-procedure erythema particularly important.22

Understanding the subtle differences can create a more effective and satisfying experience all round.

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DR GINNI MANSBERG

Dr Ginni Mansberg is a GP, TV presenter, podcaster, author and columnist. She is a physician specialising in women’s health, menopause and all things skin. She is also the co-founder and medical director of science-based cosmeceutical skincare brand, ESK.