INGREDIENT FOCUS

SPOTLIGHT ON… ASTAXANTHIN

Ellen Cummings explores the magic behind astaxanthin’s ability to enhance skin health, improve elasticity and defend against environmental stressors

Astaxanthin is gaining attention for its multi-layer antioxidant protection, barrier support and anti-ageing properties, but how does this trending ingredient work?

WHAT IS ASTAXANTHIN?

Astaxanthin is a naturally occurring red-orange carotenoid antioxidant, primarily produced by microalgae such as Haematococcus pluvialis. It is also found in lower concentrations in red seaweed (Rhodophyta) and gives salmon, shrimp and flamingos their signature pink hue.

Candice Gardner, education manager at Dermalogica UK, explains, “In skincare, it’s celebrated for its ability to help defend the skin against oxidative stress caused by UV exposure and pollution.”

Debbie Thomas, founder of D. Thomas Clinic and Cellis skincare, adds, “In skincare, it’s sourced directly from this algae for use in creams, serums and gels.”

HOW IS ASTAXANTHIN SOURCED AND STABILISED?

For professional skincare use, astaxanthin is most commonly derived from sustainably cultivated microalgae grown under controlled conditions. The pigment is carefully extracted and stabilised to preserve potency and colour integrity, often via encapsulation methods such as liposomes, nano-emulsions or polymers.

“Opaque or airless packaging is essential to maintaining ingredient integrity,” notes Thomas.

This careful sourcing ensures the ingredient is vegan, traceable and renewable – aligning with responsible formulation practices in modern skincare.

WHAT SETS ASTAXANTHIN APART FROM OTHER ANTIOXIDANTS?

Astaxanthin’s unique molecular structure allows it to span both the lipid and aqueous layers of cell membranes, providing broader antioxidant coverage than vitamin C or E.

Gardner explains, “Vitamin E can protect the lipid cellular membrane structures whilst vitamin C provides aqueous antioxidant defense in surrounding areas. They can work collaboratively, however astaxanthin offers an all-in-one solution.”

Thomas adds, “Astaxanthin sits across the skin’s lipid membranes and neutralises the reactive oxygen species that kick off UV and pollution damage right at the cause. That placement gives it strong singlet-oxygen quenching, steady performance and less sting.”

This makes astaxanthin highly effective at protecting DNA, reducing oxidative stress and maintaining skin resilience.

HOW ASTAXANTHIN WORKS IN THE SKIN

Astaxanthin integrates into cell membranes, neutralising free radicals before they can damage lipids, proteins or DNA. Beyond its antioxidant activity, it acts as a signalling molecule, influencing pathways involved in inflammation, collagen synthesis and cellular repair.

“By reducing that oxidative ‘spark’, it helps keep keratinocytes and fibroblasts calmer, supports collagen preservation, and maintains a stronger, more resilient barrier,” says Thomas.

This mechanism explains its broad benefits, from maintaining hydration to supporting barrier integrity and elasticity.

SKINCARE BENEFITS OF ASTAXANTHIN

Astaxanthin offers a wide array of benefits, particularly for oxidative-stress-related concerns:

• Anti-ageing: Helps reduce fine lines, improves skin elasticity and supports collagen and elastin.

• Barrier support: Enhances hydration and overall skin comfort.

• Calming effect: Reduces redness and environmental reactivity.

• Radiance and tone: Evens skin tone and diminishes dullness.

Gardner summarises, “Regular use can help improve the appearance of fine lines, dullness and uneven tone. It also supports barrier integrity, which helps skin maintain moisture and bounce.”

CLINICAL EVIDENCE AND RESEARCH

Several clinical studies support astaxanthin’s effectiveness. Human trials have shown improvements in elasticity, smoothness, hydration and visible signs of photoageing.

A notable 10-week study by Ito et al. demonstrated that oral supplementation with 4mg of astaxanthin improved minimal erythema dose (MED) and reduced moisture loss, while also enhancing texture and roughness in non-UV-exposed skin.

Lorraine Perretta, head of nutrition at Advanced Nutrition Programme, highlights, “Astaxanthin reduces collagen and elastin breakdown, plus protects, promotes and retains collagen and elastin – the key skin structures.”

Meta-analyses also suggest that oral supplementation may offer a more sustained impact than topical application, particularly for elasticity and overall skin resilience.

WHO CAN BENEFIT FROM ASTAXANTHIN?

Astaxanthin is generally suitable for all skin types, especially those concerned with:

• Premature ageing

• UV or pollution exposure

• Sensitive or reactive skin

• Menopausal skin or barrier fragility “It’s a great choice for menopausal, stressed or urban skin,” says Gardner.

Thomas notes its particular value for photo-exposed, reactive or barrier-fragile skins, saying it’s “great for ‘city skin’, frequent flyers and retinoid-sensitive clients”.

INCORPORATING ASTAXANTHIN INTO PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS

Astaxanthin can be introduced in antioxidant-boosting phases of facials or as a post-treatment finish to reinforce barrier recovery. It pairs synergistically with red LED therapy and should generally be applied after heat-based procedures like radiofrequency to avoid degradation.

“Position it as part of a ‘defense and recovery’ focus within treatment offerings. It’s ideal for skin exposed to pollution, blue light or UV,” says Gardner.

Pairing with other actives, such as vitamins C and E, peptides, hyaluronic acid and retinol, enhances overall skin resilience.

HOMECARE RECOMMENDATIONS

Astaxanthin is most effective in leave-on formulations like serums, moisturisers and targeted treatments.

Thomas advises, “Daily use, morning and evening, sets expectations at eight to twelve weeks for visible changes in elasticity, TEWL and texture.”

Morning application offers protection from environmental stressors, while evening use supports repair and regeneration during natural skin renewal cycles.

ORAL SUPPLEMENTATION FOR SKIN HEALTH

Oral astaxanthin supplementation provides systemic antioxidant support. A daily dose of 4mg is supported by clinical studies and is best taken with dietary fats to enhance absorption.

Combining astaxanthin with other nutrients, such as omegas, antioxidants and probiotics, can further optimise skin benefits.

“We have seen initial improvements begin in the first four weeks, with continued improvements in elasticity over longer consumption,” says Perretta.

THE FUTURE OF ASTAXANTHIN IN SKINCARE

With increasing awareness of oxidative stress and environmental damage, astaxanthin’s relevance is expected to grow in both professional and consumer skincare.

Its multi-layered antioxidant action, barrier support and compatibility with other actives make it a must-have ingredient for treatments, homecare and supplementation protocols.

“As the focus on oxidative stress and environmental stressors continues, astaxanthin’s multi-dimensional antioxidant benefits and natural origin make it increasingly relevant for both professional and retail formulations,” concludes Gardner.