DR RITA RAKUS

LIPS FIT FOR A QUEEN

Anna Dobbie sits down with aesthetics icon, the ‘London Lip Queen’ Dr Rita Rakus, to find out how she has transformed into one of the sector’s foremost pioneers of technology-led longevity aesthetics

For more than three decades, Dr Rita Rakus has been one of aesthetic medicine’s most influential innovators, shaping not only trends but the philosophy behind modern non-surgical rejuvenation. Although best known publicly as the ‘London Lip Queen’, Dr Rakus’s influence on modern aesthetics extends far beyond injectables; she has steadily been among the first practitioners in the UK to introduce breakthrough technologies, from lasers and radiofrequency devices to regenerative and longevity-focused treatments, becoming a global key opinion leader (KOL) and award-winning provider for many leading international brands.

Her career in aesthetics began long before injectables became mainstream. After helping to found one of Australia’s largest automated pathology laboratories, Dr Rakus had an early curiosity for emerging medical technologies. That curiosity ultimately led her into cosmetic medicine, where she was fortunate to train under Professor John Celin, a pioneer who established the first day surgery centre in London.

“I assisted him in cosmetic surgery for 10 years,” she recalls. “He had done some training at Harvard and introduced me to a completely different way of thinking about aesthetic medicine and innovation.”

At a time when aesthetic medicine was still in its infancy, Dr Rakus immersed herself in the newest technologies developing from the US and Europe. She trained with Dr Jean and Alastair Carruthers, the pioneers of cosmetic botulinum toxin, and became one of the earliest adopters of lasers, fillers, and radio-frequency devices in the UK. By the early 2000s, she was among the first practitioners in Britain to champion Thermage, helping to establish non-surgical skin tightening as a credible alternative to surgery.

Her sway on the profession itself has been equally significant. Alongside Dr Patrick Bowler, Dr Rakus co-founded the British College of Aesthetic Medicine (BCAM) – then known as the British Association of Cosmetic Doctors (BACD) – in 2000, helping to professionalise a fast-changing sector. Over the years, she also worked extensively across the UK, travelling between clinics and treating patients from all walks of life.

“That gave me an enormous injectable experience,” she says, “but more importantly, it demonstrated to me what patients actually wanted and what could realistically be achieved if they were not having surgery.”

THE BIRTH OF THE “LONDON LIP”

Although Dr Rakus became synonymous with lip enhancement, her signature style appeared as a deliberate reaction against the more dramatic ‘Paris lip’ aesthetic that dominated trends at the time.

“The ‘Paris lip’ was the first fashion lip trend, but I saw the need for my UK patients to have a more subtle improvement,” she explains. “The development of newer products and technology enabled me to achieve a more artistic result.”

Artistic sensitivity runs deep in Dr Rakus’s background. Coming from a family of architects, artists and doctors, she believes aesthetics should be treated with the same eye for proportion and individuality found in classical art.

“A beautiful lip is one that doesn’t appear to have been touched, possibly with a slight enhancement, and fitting to your face beautifully.” Dr Rakus spends time in her consultations observing not only facial anatomy but also how a patient speaks, smiles, and expresses emotion. She listens carefully to their profession, lifestyle and concerns before developing a treatment plan.

“I think aesthetic training should include art and sculpture, to achieve natural results rather than a cookie-cutter approach; each patient is an individual,” she says. “I spend a lot of time in art galleries looking at classical art, especially to improve my tastes and absorb from the masters.”

I believe the future of aesthetics is cellular.

A CAREER BUILT ON EMERGING TECHNOLOGY

Long before “regenerative aesthetics” became an industry buzzword, Dr Rakus had already built a reputation for identifying technologies years ahead of the mainstream.

Over the years, Dr Rakus has also become a global KOL and educator for numerous leading aesthetic technologies and injectable brands, mentoring practitioners internationally and advising companies on the future direction of regenerative and non-surgical medicine. Her clinic has worked closely with technologies such as Thermage, Sofwave, Emsculpt Neo, Erchonia, Ultherapy, UltraClear, and leading injectable and regenerative brands.

Today, Dr Rakus and her team continue to focus on treatments that stimulate collagen, improve skin quality, and encourage long-term cellular health, rather than relying solely on volumisation.

She was also among the first practitioners in the UK to introduce LDM Triple, a German-developed no-trauma ultrasound technology that has developed a cult following in Korea because of its anti-inflammatory and skin-regenerative benefits. “We are moving into treatments that support healing, calm inflammation and improve cellular communication,” says Dr Rakus. “Patients increasingly want skin quality, longevity and natural rejuvenation rather than dramatic change. “I believe the future of aesthetics is cellular. If we can reduce inflammation, improve healing and optimise cellular function, every treatment, whether it’s skin tightening, injectables or body contouring, performs better and more naturally.”

Dr Rakus also offers Erchonia’s VZ8 intelligent body contouring treatment, combining targeted fat reduction with cellular wellness and anti-inflammatory support in a non-invasive protocol. She describes the technology as part of a wider shift toward longevity-focused aesthetics. “The future is regenerative medicine,” she says. “We are increasingly grasping the importance of inflammation, mitochondrial health, the gut microbiome and nervous-system regulation in both ageing and recovery.”

She has become internationally recognised for her work with Sofwave ultrasound technology, and her clinic is now ranked among the top Sofwave facilities worldwide. The treatment has attracted a loyal celebrity following, including businesswoman Karren Brady. “Sofwave is one of the premier non-surgical lifting and tightening technologies available today,” she says. “Patients want natural-looking tightening of the face and body with minimal downtime.”

THE RETURN TO NATURAL RESULTS

After years of fuller lips and amplified features dominating the runways and glossy mags, Dr Rakus believes the industry is undergoing an important shift.

“Lips took over from the exaggerated breast implant fashion, but there is a real reversal now,” she says.

Today’s patients increasingly seek skin quality, subtle lifting and long-term rejuvenation rather than obvious volumisation. Dr Rakus points to technologies such as Sofwave and Thermage FLX, alongside regenerative treatments such as polynucleotides, exosomes, and skin boosters, as central drivers.

“With ultrasound and radiofrequency, we target the collagen and elastin to lift, tighten and stimulate new production, which is helped by polynucleotides, skin boosters and exosomes,” she explains.

She is also increasingly cautious about overfilling, noting growing concerns around filler duration and its possible effects on tissue and bone structures.

“We are becoming more aware that filler can persist in the tissues for longer than originally believed,”she says, “which is why many patients are now favouring more regenerative approaches that focus on skin quality and collagen stimulation.”

LOOKING AT THE “50-YEAR JOURNEY”

Dr Rakus encourages both patients and practitioners to think past immediate trends and focus instead on longevity. “I try to educate my patients to look at the big picture and how they would like to look at the end,” she says.

My legacy in aesthetic medicine is that it functions as a stepping stone to healthspan and longevity.

Her growing focus on longevity aesthetics has also been informed by exposure to some of the world’s leading anti-ageing research circles, including past associations with California’s Buck Institute for Research on Ageing and more recent involvement with the aesthetic and anti-ageing advisory council linked to the National University of Singapore, now ranked among the world’s leading universities. The experience has deepened her interest in inflammation, cellular repair and the convergence of aesthetics along with preventative healthspan medicine.

“My legacy in aesthetic medicine is that it functions as a stepping stone to healthspan and longevity, especially supporting healthy ageing and cognitive wellbeing. It also helps patients build inner confidence through nuanced, natural aesthetic improvements. “The future lies in a combination of technology and minimal injectables. Also, we must not forget sun protection, no refined sugar, smoking and minimal alcohol.”

MENTORSHIP, SAFETY AND IN-PERSON RELATIONSHIPS

Having received the Lifetime Achievement Award at Women in Aesthetics 2026 and the Lifetime Safety in Beauty Award 2019, Dr Rakus remains deeply committed to coaching the next generation of aesthetic practitioners. Her sway across the sector continues to expand internationally, with Dr Rakus recently joining the advisory board of patient safety platform Twiqk as a distinguished member. “When mentoring young doctors, it’s important that they have good communication skills, an artistic eye and a good medical background to deal with complications and general medical problems.”

Equally important, she believes, is authenticity: “I’ve always said that there are enough patients in the world to connect with one’s personal style. It’s important to be yourself and not have to pretend to be someone else during the working day.”

She places enormous value on establishing a setting where patients are safe, welcome, and unjudged. “What is important is a friendly team, cleanliness, a safe environment with appropriate equipment and good consent forms, as well as thorough after care and follow up,” she says. “We’ve often had the comment that our clinic is like a family.”

She is also wary of clinics in which style overshadows care. “Patients feel self-conscious and nervous when they attend and can be intimidated by overly glamorous staff,” she says. “I try to have a mix of ages and looks on my team to make my patients feel comfortable.”

Even after decades in practice, Dr Rakus continues to travel internationally, lecture at conferences and trial emerging technologies. Yet for all the innovation surrounding her, she insists the most valuable source of insight remains her patients themselves.

“They are often the ones to come to me saying ‘Dr Rakus, did you see this on social media?’ and then I go and investigate,” she says.

Ultimately, her success has rested not on chasing trends, but on understanding when to resist them: “Natural, subtle and safe. That’s where aesthetic medicine is heading.”