ASK THE EXPERTS
How can I effectively treat Black skin with peels?
KELLY SAYNOR
Kelly Saynor is an aesthetic nurse prescriber and clinical director at Renew Medical Aesthetics in Cheshire. She is also clinical director at Medica Forte, which distributes The Perfect Peel in the UK.
Chemical peels are really beneficial for Black skin due to their effectiveness in treating hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which are a top concern for skin of colour.
They work by removing the top layer of the skin, which helps in lightening dark spots, evening out skin tone, and reducing the appearance of melasma and sunspots. Peels can also address acne and its resultant scarring by unclogging pores and promoting the growth of new, smoother skin.
The higher melanin content offers a degree of natural protection against UV radiation, and chemical peels complement this by helping to manage and reduce signs of ageing, such as fine lines and wrinkles, through collagen stimulation.
Another reason I love peels for Black skin is that we are less likely to reach for botulinum toxin and fillers – we age differently. For this group, lines and wrinkles and loss of volume are more of a secondary ageing concern. We tend to want to improve skin texture and tone and reduce pore size first which is where peels come in.
Professionals can sometimes be scared of carrying out peels on dark skin tones but as with anything it should be about tailoring the treatment for each individual. Peels come in different depths so a thorough consultation and skin assessment should help inform how deep the peel should go as not every client needs to completely shed their skin. Superficial peels are great for some clients.
When considering chemical peels for Black skin, it’s all about getting the approach spot on to dodge any pigmentation woes or scarring. Opting for the gentler light to medium peels can make a world of difference, avoiding those that might throw your skin’s colour balance off kilter.
As well as tailoring the treatment to what the client’s skin really needs, it’s really important to prep it properly before peels, and be religious about aftercare, especially keeping up with the SPF to fend off any sun-induced pigment changes. Also, becoming a practitioner who’s clued up on working with darker skin tones is absolutely key.
When tailoring a peel for darker skin tones, you need lower percentages with lots of ingredients working in synergy to manage and reduce the risk of PIH – glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid, lower TCA and retinol are great for this.
It’s not just what you use, but how you use it. It’s all about customising the strength and how long you leave it on the skin, ensuring it’s just enough to do its job without overdoing it.
Keeping the skin shielded from the sun with a great SPF is nonnegotiable. Treat it with a bit of TLC, using gentle products to help it heal and stay calm.