COMMERCIAL FEATURE

THE ROLE OF ANTIOXIDANTS IN INTEGRATED AESTHETICS

Dr Derrick Phillips examines the science behind topical vitamin C and how SkinCeuticals antioxidant formulations are helping protect against oxidative stress, support collagen synthesis and enhance outcomes from aesthetic treatments

DR DERRICK PHILLIPS

Dr Derrick Phillips is a consultant dermatologist based in London with clinical interests in general dermatology, lesion assessment, energy-based treatments and skin rejuvenation. He is a spokesperson for the British Skin Foundation, and a member of the Aesthetics Journal Review Panel.

April 4 is National Vitamin C Day, so there is no better time to reflect on the evolution of antioxidant science in aesthetic medicine. For more than 40 years, SkinCeuticals has led research into topical antioxidants, pioneering vitamin C formulations designed to protect the skin from oxidative stress while supporting collagen synthesis and treatment of dyspigmentation. Today, vitamin C serums such as C E Ferulic, Phloretin CF and Silymarin CF play an important role in modern integrated skincare strategies within aesthetic practice.

THE SCIENCE OF VITAMIN C

Not all vitamin C formulations are created equal. In the 1990s, Dr Sheldon Pinnell established the Duke parameters, demonstrating that effective topical vitamin C requires pure L-ascorbic acid at concentrations between 10-20% and a pH of 3.5 or lower to enable penetration through the stratum corneum.1 When delivered in this form, vitamin C neutralises reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet radiation, pollution and infrared exposure2 . It also reduces matrix metalloproteinase activity, limiting collagen degradation, while acting as a cofactor for lysyl and prolyl hydroxylase to stabilise collagen fibres and promote transcription pathways involved in collagen biosynthesis.2

TAILORED ANTIOXIDANT SOLUTIONS

C E Ferulic remains one of the most extensively studied topical antioxidant formulations and is widely regarded as the gold-standard for people with normal to dry skin and signs of photoageing. The serum combines 15% L-ascorbic acid with 1% a-tocopherol and 0.5% ferulic acid, creating a synergistic antioxidant system. Ferulic acid stabilises vitamins C and E while enhancing their activity, whilst a-tocopherol protects cell membranes within the lipid phase of the skin.2 Together this combination has been shown to provide up to eight-fold greater protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.3 Clinical studies also demonstrate increased collagen production, improvements in skin firmness and a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

For patients with specific skin concerns, SkinCeuticals offers targeted antioxidant formulations. Phloretin CF is designed for people with normal to oily skin and pigmentary concerns, helping address hyperpigmentation while protecting against environmental free radicals.5

INTEGRATION WITH CLINICAL PROCEDURES

Topical antioxidants play an important role in optimising outcomes from aesthetic procedures. C E Ferulic can enhance results when integrated into clinical treatment protocols. When combined with a Q-switched Nd:YAG laser in the treatment of solar lentigines, C E Ferulic demonstrated greater reduction in melanin index compared to the control.6 In addition, application following fractional ablative laser resurfacing has been shown to reduce post-treatment erythema and oedema whilst shortening patient recovery by two days.7 Integrating antioxidants into protocols for lasers and microneedling significantly improves treatment outcomes; a split-neck clinical study showed that post-treatment C E Ferulic application led to a 29.9% reduction (vs. 18.0%; p < 0.001) in wrinkle severity and a 12.9% (vs. 2.3%; p < 0.001) increase in elasticity by week 12 compared to control.8

CONCLUSION

As aesthetic medicine continues to evolve, integrated skincare is becoming increasingly important for optimising patient outcomes. Evidence-based antioxidants like the

SkinCeuticals vitamin C serums not only protect the skin from oxidative stress but also enhance and support the results of in-clinic procedures.

This article is sponsored by SkinCeuticals

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