Personalised skincare

Dr Emma Craythorne looks at the efficacy of tailored skincare

Personalised skincare is reshaping our clinical approach to managing skin conditions, moving away from generic, over-the-counter solutions towards tailored, evidence-based treatments. Dr Emma Craythorne, a consultant dermatologist at Guy’s and Tommy’s, shares how her experience in procedural dermatology has led to a pioneering bespoke treatment model that enhances patient outcomes, reduces environmental waste, and combats the misinformation proliferated by social media.

FROM CLINICAL EXPERTISE TO WIDER IMPACT

Dr Craythorne’s strong clinical foundation has helped her improve patient care and public understanding of dermatology. After years dedicated to procedures such as laser treatments and skin cancer surgeries, she was invited by the British Association of Dermatologists (BAD) to participate in a TV pilot for Discovery.

“I’d been a consultant for about eight years and, at that point,” she notes, “I felt comfortable enough to try something new, but not so experienced that I was overly confident.”

Her transition to the screen provided a platform to disseminate best practices, counteract the often unverified skincare advice circulating online and reinforce the importance of maintaining evidence-based standards even when engaging with a broader audience.

THE INFLUENCE OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON PATIENT EXPECTATIONS

Social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram are increasingly shaping patient perceptions of skin health. The constant stream of idealised, filtered images can lead to unrealistic expectations and self-diagnosis, with patients sometimes seeking treatments that are not clinically indicated.

“When you’re bombarded with images of ‘perfect’ skin, it’s no wonder people start comparing themselves, and sometimes even chasing treatments that aren’t right for them,” Dr Craythorne observes.

This trend underscores the need for thorough patient assessments and education. Rather than relying on superficial comparisons, a detailed clinical evaluation can help discern individual skin physiology, ranging from sebum production and collagen density to sensitivity and barrier function.

THE RATIONALE BEHIND PERSONALISATION

The foundation of personalised skincare lies in recognising that each patient’s skin is unique. In clinical practice, this means moving beyond simplistic categorisations like “oily” or “dry” to consider a broader array of factors, including genetic predispositions and previous treatment responses. Dr Craythorne emphasises:

“Just because a treatment works for one patient doesn’t mean it will work for another.”

Patients should undergo comprehensive assessments that include detailed questionnaires and photographic analyses. The data collected should then be processed via a clinical algorithm, which evaluates parameters such as skin barrier integrity, pigment production, and vascular reactivity. This rigorous process ensures that the resulting treatment plan is precisely tailored to each patient’s specific needs.

BESPOKE TREATMENT PLANS

Dr Craythorne’s team has developed an innovative, prescription-only system, called Klira, designed to deliver bespoke treatments efficiently. The regime is administered using an elegantly designed Italian glass bottle, which houses a cartridge containing a month’s supply of the personalised formulation. Inside each cartridge, actives such as tretinoin, azelaic acid, ivermectin, or hydroquinone are carefully calibrated to match the patient’s skin profile. The treatment protocol starts at a low concentration – for example, 0.01% tretinoin – with a structured titration schedule that incrementally increases the dose as tolerated. This stepwise approach not only minimises the risk of adverse effects but also allows for regular, scheduled reviews every three to six months to adjust the treatment as needed. The monthly refill model is underpinned by a rolling membership contract, which ensures continuity of care without the commitment of long-term binding.

The system’s design also addresses sustainability concerns by reducing the need for multiple plastic containers, which is becoming an increasingly important consideration in modern clinical practice.

IMPLEMENTING PERSONALISATION IN CLINICAL SETTINGS

A bespoke model offers medics a practical solution to the challenges of treating diverse skin conditions. It is particularly beneficial for conditions like acne, rosacea, and even complex, pre-malignant disorders such as Disseminated Superficial Actinic Porokeratosis (DSAP). Dr Craythorne explains how a patient’s suggestion led to a novel protocol for DSAP, resulting in significant clinical improvement: “When traditional treatments weren’t delivering the desired outcomes, we turned to a customised cream regime that finally made a difference.”

The approach involves not only the formulation of the treatment but also the integration of digital tools. Clinicians can monitor patient progress via an online portal, where the treatment journey is mapped out in detail, complete with instructional videos and regular check-ins. This seamless integration of technology into patient management shows the importance of a more data-driven, patient-centred model of care.

CLINICAL IMPLICATIONS AND FUTURE DIRECTIONS

Adopting personalised skincare protocols represents a significant shift in dermatological practice. By basing treatment on robust clinical assessments and algorithm-driven formulations, practitioners can improve treatment efficacy, reduce the incidence of adverse effects, and enhance overall patient satisfaction. As Dr Craythorne aptly puts it,

“When you have a treatment plan that’s bespoke to your patient’s unique skin, you’re not just treating a condition – you’re enhancing overall skin health.”

This model also provides a framework for sustainable practice. By consolidating multiple treatments into one well-designed system, clinicians can reduce the environmental footprint associated with waste from disposable packaging. Furthermore, the prescription-only nature of the system ensures that treatments remain in the hands of qualified professionals, thus safeguarding against the risks associated with self-prescription and unverified online advice.

Looking ahead, the integration of personalised skincare into mainstream dermatological practice could redefine treatment paradigms. As more clinical data becomes available and digital health tools continue to evolve, the potential for further refinement of these protocols is vast. For medics, this represents an opportunity to deliver care that is not only innovative but also deeply attuned to the nuances of individual patient needs.

As Dr Craythorne succinctly puts it, “Skincare isn’t just about aesthetics – it’s about optimising skin health through evidence-based protocols.”

For clinicians, embracing personalised skincare is a crucial step forward in delivering treatments that are as unique as the patients they serve.