CRUELTY-FREE COLLAGEN

ZENii London founder Dr Johanna Ward on developing the world’s first liquid and powder vegan collagen and why veganism in aesthetics is the way forward

Aesthetic Medicine: So, how did you first think of vegan collagen?

Dr Ward: I have wanted to create vegan collagen since I launched Skin Fusion (ZENii’s marine collagen liquid) six years ago. We were one of the very first collagens on the market but, as someone who is a flexitarian with my diet, I wanted to offer vegetarians and vegans an option that was a true collagen supplement. Until very recently, the science and technology just weren’t available, but, about six months ago, we managed to use a new scientific method which meant we could replicate human type 1 collagen. We also know there is a demand for vegan collagen, with global searches up by 50% in the last 12 months for the product, showing that there is a growing number of consumers who want to care for our planet while also improving their health, well-being and beauty.

Aesthetic Medicine: How did you develop the collagen?

Dr Ward: I work with a team of scientists on all ZENii products; we have been researching the development of vegan collagen for several years. Beauty Glow is produced using a new groundbreaking fermentation process that has allowed us to obtain the exact combination and ratio of amino acids needed by the human body. It then undergoes a microencapsulation process, creating a highly absorbable, water-dispersible powder and liquid that the body uses before digestion. The vegan source of Beauty Glow’s collagen is actually seaweed and corn. It delivers a highly absorbable complex of these amino acids for the body to utilise and to stimulate the body’s creation of further collagen in the fibroblasts without animal origin or hydrolysis. Once we had access to this technology, I was able to create the formula with my team, blending the vegan collagen with powerful co-ingredients to make the delicious liquid and powder format that we sell today.

Aesthetic Medicine: How did you test its functionality as compared to nonvegan collagen?

Dr Ward: Vegan collagen is a very new-to-market product, so there are no clinical study results on it yet, but we know this is coming as the vegan collagen sector grows. Marine collagen, for example, has many clinical studies that prove its powerful effects. Independent consumer testing showed that 55 women aged 30-60 who took 1000mg of Beauty Glow collagen in two daily powder capsules over 60 days reported firmer, more hydrated skin. Their fine lines and wrinkles were reduced, their skin tone was more even and their radiance was enhanced. They also reported the appearance of dark circles reduced and their eyes looked less tired. They had supple, smoother skin and their breakouts and blemishes were reduced. Their skin appeared healthier, their complexion looked brighter and their nails felt stronger, with improved condition.

Aesthetic Medicine: Do you think veganism is the future of the aesthetics industry?

Dr Ward: I do believe that veganism is the future of the industry. There is absolutely no reason for cosmetic animal testing in this day and age and we have seen a huge shift in the number of vegan aesthetic and cosmetic brands and a cross-over into major global retailers stocking and prioritising these brands. We also know that major aesthetic brands are making big investments in finding ways to eliminate animal testing and also small businesses like our own ensuring all their products are 100% vegan. There are over 1,000 companies in the industry that are now certified ‘cruelty-free’, which is a big statement and shift. We are also seeing global brands promote their products based on being vegan which again, in a few years is a huge shift in terms of the messaging that consumers are making their purchases based on. At ZENii, all our skincare and the majority of our supplements are vegan and our marine collagen is sourced from six different species of freshwater fish. The amino acids are from parts of the fish that would normally be thrown away also.

Aesthetic Medicine: How does your business address other aspects of sustainability?

Dr Ward: We firmly believe that it is our collective duty to protect our wonderful planet. All our skincare products are 100% vegan and we use sustainable packaging as much as possible. For example, our skincare scrubs are biodegradable and do not contain beads that harm marine life or the environment or contribute to plastic in the oceans. Our Skin Fusion collagen goes through a rigorous production process to ensure all heavy metals are removed; each batch is tested and certified to be free of heavy metals. We also ‘upcycle’ the part of the fish that would otherwise be thrown away.

In addition, all ZENii’s sun protectors are certified reef friendly so they don’t damage coral reefs once they wash into the water system.

ZENii.co.uk