TIKTOK
Derm Debunks TIK TOK SKINCARE TRENDS
Dr Sina Ghadiri delves into and debunks some of the prominent trends on ‘SkinTok’ and how to educate your clients and direct them to more evidence-based treatments…
We are witnessing an unprecedented intersection of dermatology and social media culture, where platforms like TikTok increasingly shape public perception and patient behaviour around skincare. While these channels offer opportunities for health education, they also perpetuate misinformation, often propagated by non-medical influencers without scientific grounding. This has created a dual challenge: staying abreast of evolving public narratives, and correcting misconceptions in clinic.
As dermatologists, we’re tasked not only with treating skin disease but also with guiding patients through the noise. This article deconstructs several viral TikTok skincare trends, offering a clinically reasoned critique of their claims, risks, and realities.
“SKINCARE SMOOTHIES”–MIXING MULTIPLE CREAMS PRE-APPLICATION
The Trend: Some TikTok users are blending two, three, or even more moisturisers, serums, or active treatments in their hands or on a product lid before slathering the mix onto their face, claiming it saves time and boosts effectiveness.
Clinical Perspective: While seemingly innocuous, indiscriminately blending actives such as retinoids, acids, and antioxidants can destabilise formulations, compromise pH-dependent ingredients, and increase irritant potential. Many products are designed to function optimally within controlled delivery systems and specific sequences.
Verdict: We should encourage patients to follow structured routines based on evidence and tolerability. Discourage ad hoc mixing, especially when combining multiple actives.
CHIN STRAPS FOR JAWLINE DEFINITION
The Trend: TikTok creators are showcasing tight, elastic chin straps worn for 15–30 minutes a day to "lift" the lower face, reduce double chins, and define the jawline. These products often claim to reduce facial puffiness, slim the face, and mimic the effects of cosmetic procedures… without the needles or downtime.
Clinical Perspective: Temporary improvements are likely attributable to soft tissue compression and fluid displacement. There is no evidence these devices affect subcutaneous fat, muscular tone, or connective tissue architecture in any meaningful way.
Verdict: Unnecessary and prolonged use of chin straps poses the potential for skin irritation, contact dermatitis, or exacerbation of TMJ symptoms. This is cosmetic placebo at best. Education around realistic non-surgical and surgical options remains essential.
OVER-EXFOLIATING WITH AHAS/BHAS
The Trend: Layering multiple acids in one routine to quickly achieve, glowing skin.
Clinical Perspective: This practice can lead to stratum corneum compromise, increased TEWL, erythema, and even paradoxical breakouts due to barrier dysfunction.
Verdict: Explain to over-exfoliating patients to start low and go slow with only one chosen exfoliating product. Combine only under guidance and prioritise barrier repair.
SUNSCREEN CONTOURING
The Trend: Selective sunscreen application to contour the face via differential tanning.
Clinical Perspective: This promotes deliberate photodamage and undermines decades of photo-protection advocacy. Uneven exposure increases risks of solar lentigines, pigmentary disorders such as melasma and cutaneous malignancy.
Verdict: Cosmetic contouring should not come at the expense of UV safety, and contouring should really be achieved through make-up. We must educate patients that full-face SPF should remain the gold standard of suncare.
ICE ROLLING TO SHRINK PORES PERMANENTLY
The Trend: Tools such as ice rollers marketed to “close” or “shrink” facial pores.
Clinical Perspective: Vasoconstriction from cold may transiently reduce pore visibility but has no structural impact on follicular architecture or sebaceous output. Pore size is largely genetic and hormonally/environmentally influenced.
Verdict: This trend is safe as an adjunct for puffiness, but it won’t be effective as an overall treatment modality. Patients should be advised to address pore prominence through retinoids, AHAs, and sebaceous control or consideration of in-clinic based treatments such as laser or micro-toxin.
USING DEODORANT AS A PRIMER
The Trend: Application of stick deodorants to facial skin to reduce oil and sweat under makeup.
Clinical Perspective: Antiperspirants contain aluminium salts, alcohols, and fragrances not intended for facial application. Occlusive and irritant potential is significant, especially in acne or rosacea-prone individuals.
Verdict: This one is contraindicated and will get any cosmetic chemist seething. Recommend non-comedogenic mattifying primers or skincare with niacinamide and salicylic acid.
FACIAL TAPING FOR WRINKLE PREVENTION
The Trend: Adhesive tapes used to immobilise facial muscles..
Clinical Perspective: Mechanically reducing movement may have a transient effect on dynamic wrinkles but does not influence underlying processes. Tape doesn't penetrate the skin or stimulate collagen, and any smoothing effect disappears once the tape comes off. There is no strong evidence to support its role in preventing static wrinkles, and may cause irritation, or minor abrasions, especially if worn overnight and removed improperly.
Verdict: Educate on evidence-based anti-aging strategies such as topical retinoids, photoprotection, and procedural interventions like botulinum toxin.
TOOTHPASTE FOR ACNE SPOT TREATMENT
The Trend: Toothpaste is used to "dry out" acne lesions overnight.
Clinical Perspective: This is one where there is a kernel of truth: toothpaste does contain ingredients like hydrogen peroxide, menthol, and alcohol, which may provide a temporary drying and antimicrobial effect, having utility for pustules, but also risks burning or irritating the skin, particularly in those with sensitive skin. Many modern toothpastes also contain whitening agents and fragrances that have no place on facial skin.
Verdict: Educate clients that toothpaste for acne is not evidence-based and not worth the risks associated with use. Topical benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or adapalene should remain the mainstays.
OVERUSE OF CAPSULE-BASED CREAMS
The Trend: Piling on multiple single-use capsule creams - often vitamin-enriched or luxury formulas for a, “glass skin” effect.
Clinical Perspective: While capsule creams can be potent and effective, they’re designed to deliver concentrated doses of active ingredients, not to be layered endlessly. Overusing them can overwhelm skin, clog pores, disrupt the barrier, and increase the risk of irritation, especially when combining ingredients like retinol, peptides, and acids without a plan. Additionally, capsule skincare is usually expensive and intended to be used sparingly. Using multiple at once not only wastes product but could lead to ingredient overload to the face.
Verdict: Counsel on rational use, ideally tailored to skin phenotype. Emphasise ingredient synergy over maximalism to patients and only use the amount of product you need.
FINAL THOUGHTS: A ROLE FOR CLINICIANS IN DIGITAL LITERACY
As dermatologists, we now regularly contend with the downstream effects of social media trends in our consulting rooms. Patients often arrive with expectations shaped more by influencers than evidence. This reinforces our dual responsibility as both clinicians and educators.
Let’s continue to approach this challenge with reason and scientific clarity, using our voices to bridge the gap between what goes viral and what holds true. In doing so, we reaffirm that the most effective skincare guidance is grounded in clinical evidence, not in fleeting trends shaped by algorithms.
DR SINA GHADIRI
Dr Sina Ghadiri is a highly regarded Consultant Dermatologist based in the UK, renowned for his expertise in both clinical and cosmetic dermatology. Blending the art of facial balancing and improving both skin health and quality, Dr Sina seamlessly integrates aesthetic precision and dermalogical expertise to help his patients achieve their unique goals with long-term results.