RETINOID REGUL ATIONS

Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz discusses the impact of the EU’s new retinoid regulations on professionals and patients

The umbrella term ‘retinoids’ refers to compounds of both natural, biologically active forms of vitamin A (retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid) as well as synthetic analogues of adapalene. This holy grail ingredient helps to treat pigmentation, acne, and ageing concerns. It increases cell turnover rates, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, stimulates collagen synthesis, reduces sebum production, improves skin firmness, and targets uneven texture.

Retinoids have recently come under scrutiny due to recent changes in European Union (EU) cosmetics regulations where the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that ‘overall consumer exposure, although low, may be of concern for consumers with the highest exposure to vitamin A (5 %of the total population) from food and food supplements’ (European Union Commission Regulation, 2024).

Therefore, from November 1, 2025, retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate will face restrictions in concentrations, with new levels set at 0.3% for face products (previously at 1%) and 0.05% for body products (European Union Commission Regulation, 2024).

While these regulations only concern the EU, their influence is likely to be felt on a global scale. This is because skincare brands aiming to distribute products in the EU while complying with the new regulations are unlikely to want to invest significant resources in creating marketspecific formulations. As a result, it is likely that brands will sell their EU compliant formulations across all markets.

WHAT IS THE LIKELY IMPACT OF THESE CHANGES IN PRACTICE?

Chemical engineer, skincare science educator, and founder of Skin Masterclass, Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz comments, “There will inevitably be some concern from professionals and patients that lowered concentrations of active retinoid ingredients will reduce efficacy, thus adversely affecting treatment outcomes for their patients. While this may be true for some patients, it’s important to remember that retinoid tolerance between individuals varies, and that it may be that gentler formulations will help to minimise undesirable effects for those with low tolerability or highly sensitive skin.

“Furthermore, for patients accustomed to high concentrations of retinoids, there are other options available that include incorporating additional ingredients that target signs of ageing. For example, the addition of copper peptides to retinol can compensate for the reduced concentration while still enhancing efforts to combat ageing.

“Another effective ingredient is bakuchiol, which, although not a direct substitute for retinol, can produce similar results by stimulating collagen synthesis, acting as an antioxidant, and firming the skin. Additionally, using low concentrations of exfoliating acids, such as AHAs, alongside retinol, has been shown in numerous studies to yield impressive results.

“You can also switch to treating the patient with retinal or retinaldehyde. Since the new regulations do not address retinal, its current concentrations remain unaffected. Therefore, recommending retinal to clients, which is more potent and can meet the needs of experienced users, is a viable solution. Moreover, with the recent surge in popularity, the availability of affordable and effective retinal products has significantly increased in recent years.”

Kemal Yilmaz says, “Part of the vitamin A family, retinoids are considered by many as the gold standard of anti-ageing ingredients. Their use in topical cosmetics products has become increasingly popular with both healthcare professionals and patients thanks to their highly effective and well researched benefits.

“Although changes won’t come into effect until November, 1, 2025, it’s advisable to start discussing different options with patients now as part of a treatment review or initial skincare consultation. By doing so, it will give adequate time to discuss and consider viable alternative options that best suit the individual patient and manage their expectations about any potential changes to their treatment plans and outcomes before the new regulations come into place.”