Trend Spotlight: Laser highlighting

Editorial assistant Michelle Duffield talks to Dr Zoya Awan about the latest hair bleaching technique to appear on social media

Recent videos online have shown a new laser hair bleaching trend emerge as an alternative to traditional hair bleaching for that blonde summer style. Dr Zoya Awan explains how this innovative method is set to change the way we approach hair highlights.

HOW DOES LASER HIGHLIGHTING WORK?

Laser hair bleaching uses high-intensity, short-pulse lasers like Q-switched or Pico lasers, which specifically target pigment in the hair. “The laser energy shatters the pigment while minimising thermal damage to the surrounding skin and hair,” explains Dr Awan. The adjustable spot size of the laser handpiece allows for precise application, creating controlled highlights or bleaching larger areas of hair to achieve a lighter shade.

WHICH LASERS ARE USED?

Q-switched and Pico lasers are the primary technologies used for laser hair bleaching. “The key difference lies in the pulse duration,” says Dr Awan. “Q-switched lasers operate in nanoseconds, while Pico lasers work in picoseconds, offering even shorter pulse durations. Initially designed for tattoo removal and skin pigmentation treatments, these lasers are now being adapted for hair bleaching.”

THE BATTLE BETWEEN BLEACH AND LASER

When it comes to hair damage, laser bleaching shares some risks with traditional chemical methods, including potential hair quality degradation and effects on hair growth. However, Dr Awan notes that laser bleaching might be less harmful than chemical bleaching. “The precision of laser spot sizes offers more control, potentially lifting darker dyes more effectively with fewer complications,” she says. Additionally, for individuals allergic to chemical dyes, laser bleaching could provide a safer alternative, especially for smaller problem areas like lightening peach fuzz.

DOES THE HAIR NEED EXTRA CARE?

“Yes, frequent laser highlighting can lead to hair thinning, brittleness, and breakage,” warns Dr Awan. The high heat involved in the process necessitates the use of haircare products designed to protect against thermal damage.

TO BE LASERED OR NOT TO BE LASERED

Laser procedures are not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding individuals, patients with photosensitivity, or those on photosensitive medications or oral retinoids within six months prior to treatment. “Despite being targeted at hair, the same precautions as other laser treatments should apply due to the lack of long-term data,” Dr Awan advises.

HOW MANY TREATMENTS DO YOU NEED?

Achieving the desired highlight effect typically takes just one to two laser treatments, based on emerging videos and case studies.

THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE LASER LIMITS

Dr Awan weighs the pros and cons of laser highlighting compared to traditional methods. While the precision and potential for fewer complications are advantages, the technique’s novelty means long-term effects are still unknown. Additionally, the high cost and need for specialist training might limit accessibility.

IS THIS THE UPCOMING TREND OF THE SEASON?

The future of laser highlighting depends on accessibility. “Currently, these treatments are available at medical aesthetic clinics, not traditional hair salons. The high cost of quality devices and the need for specialised training could keep it niche,” Dr Awan predicts. However, demand could drive its adoption.

BUT FIRST, SAFETY

Proper training is crucial for safely performing laser hair highlighting. “Stylists should have at least NVQ level 4/5 laser training,” emphasises Dr Awan. “Lasers are powerful devices that can cause serious harm, including burns and blindness if misused.”

LET’S TALK ABOUT DAMAGE TO THE PURSE

Currently, laser hair highlighting is more expensive than traditional bleaching, and primarily offered at medical aesthetic clinics. The cost reflects the advanced technology and expertise required.

As laser hair bleaching continues to develop, it promises to offer a precise, potentially safer alternative to traditional hair dyeing methods. However, as with any new technology, proper training and cautious adoption are essential for ensuring safety and effectiveness.

DR ZOYA AWAN

Dr Zoya Awan is a multiaward-winning medical doctor with a subspeciality interest in dermatopathology, lasers and aesthetic medicine. She is the founder and medical director of Secret Aesthetics located in Harvey Nichols, Birmingham. She is a KOL for Sciton and Galderma.