The need for greater education about safety in aesthetics outside of London

Aesthetic surgeon Dr Lubna Khan-Salim explores the North/South divide in the industry, and looks at how to overcome this

It has been generally acknowledged for a long time that there is a disparity between the North and South of the country in a whole host of areas. For example the Centre for Cities charity found in 2015 that, for every 12 jobs created since 2004 in Southern cities, only one was created in cities elsewhere.1 Southern cities such as London and Milton Keynes have seen growth in jobs, whereas many Northern cities have seen a decline.

This divide has been exacerbated further by the pandemic, after which the North and Yorkshire saw a gain in footfall of +8.9% from 2021, in comparison to a far greater gain of +27.4% in Greater London, which industry experts credited to the greater impact of the burden of inflation in the North.2

According to a recent thinktank report by the Institute for Public Policy Research (IPPR) North, this wealth inequality between the North and South of England is set to grow further, with the gap reaching £228,800 per head by 2030.3

The IPPR North annual State of the North report states that, although the average wealth of people in England has grown from 2010 to 2020, inequalities between regions have almost doubled in the same period.3

The new ONS figures from 2020 to 2022 on life expectancy highlight a clear divide between the North and South and this is something that is representative of so many other areas including aesthetics, beauty, and wellness.

In the field of aesthetics, this regional divide influences safety practices, regulatory frameworks and ultimately affects the wellbeing of patients seeking aesthetic treatments. Patients in the UK are faced with contrasting standards of care, depending on their location. The North-South economic gap can result in disparities in access to high quality treatments, experienced practitioners, and safe procedures. Patients in economically disadvantaged areas may be at higher risk of receiving substandard care, leading to potential health risks and unsatisfactory outcomes.

IS THE AESTHETICS SECTOR WIDENING THE CLASS DIVIDE?

Aesthetics and wealth have always been bedfellows. While the distribution of ‘natural beauty’ is a genetic lottery, beauty standards are quite the opposite. As we enter 2024, beauty standards are creating a ‘beauty tax’ that is higher than ever. With aesthetic procedures becoming readily available, there is now an expectation not only of the usual list of ‘maintenance’ treatments like hair, nails, and lashes but also tweakments, like injectables and surgery.

The UK is the fastest growing market for non-surgical procedures, the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS) reported a 70% increase in consultation requests since 2020.4 Adhering to the beauty standard requires a privilege, but also generates a privilege, creating a vicious cycle in which those without the economic freedom to participate are heavily disadvantaged, financially and socially. “Poorly groomed women stand to earn 40% less than their beautified counterparts, while attractive people are over 20% more likely to be called back for a job interview”, according to Professor Ruth Holliday, who studies Gender and Culture at the University of Leeds. “If you’re white, middle class and you’ve got a good job, you don’t need these things as much,” she says. “It’s when you’re marginalised, beauty work becomes so much more important.”

As the cost of beauty increases, the jump between hair extensions and a nose job is vast. People are being priced out and putting themselves at risk financially in order to participate. A recent article for Refinery29 detailed how women are racking up thousands of pounds in credit card debt to get toxin and filler.5 It’s not just finances that are being put at risk, but health as well. Those who can’t afford reputable clinics cut corners by either taking up bargain offers by unlicensed practitioners or travelling abroad where prices are cheaper. However, many of these ‘affordable’ procedures come at a considerable cost to health and life. “We found in our research on cosmetic tourism that most people who travelled abroad for surgery weren’t wealthy people, they were doing it because it was cheaper there and they could get a deal,” says Prof Holliday. There was no focus on qualifications or level of training, price was the deciding factor.

HOW TO ADDRESS THE NORTH/SOUTH DIVIDE

Over the past few years, several initiatives have been launched to try and improve the business landscape in the North. In 2019, 33 newspapers and websites came together to launch the Power of the North campaign, which demanded Britain’s political parties come together to address the disparities between London and the North, and advocated for various initiatives on how this could be done.6 A number of large companies have relocated to the North of the country, including BBC, Channel 4, and Burberry. In April last year the inaugural This is Yorkshire Beauty Week was launched in an effort to ‘level up’ the aesthetics and beauty landscape in a county where there has traditionally been a lack of representation from the industry in respect to events or conferences.

The first of its kind consumer facing event, This is Yorkshire Beauty, was held in partnership with brands such as Harvey Nichols, The Ivy, John Lewis and in stunning locations such as the 5* Grantley Hall luxury spa hotel in Ripon. Covering topics such as safety in aesthetics, social media, representation, ageism, sustainability and showcasing new and emerging brands and talent, the event attracted over 1000 visitors and was hailed a success.

Bringing industry events to the North, such as Aesthetic Medicine North, raises awareness about the importance of safety standards in aesthetic practice. By engaging with practitioners and consumers in regions where access to training and resources maybe limited, the industry can collectively work towards a culture of safety and excellence in patient care.

As a former London resident who relocated to Yorkshire in 2016, I believe that there is a greater need for education and focus outside of London when it comes to aesthetics, beauty, health, and wellness.

Holding events outside of London encourages participation from a more diverse group of practitioners, each bringing unique perspectives and experience to the table. This diversity fosters innovations, collaboration, and the sharing of best practices, leading to improved standards across the board. Conferences, whether consumer or industry, play a crucial role in facilitating networking and collaboration among industry professionals. By hosting events in different locations, practitioners from all regions can connect, share knowledge, and build a strong support network that transcends geographical boundaries.

For 2024, This is Yorkshire Beauty will align with British Beauty Week 2024 (October 23-27) and run under the theme of ‘A Beauty Industry that Looks Like You’- designed to highlight the importance of representation and inclusion in British Beauty. The theme will inspire brands to celebrate the various facets of the industry, whilst also considering the ongoing work that needs to be done to ensure all voices are heard and appreciated in our industry. I firmly believe, as an aesthetics industry, we need to be part of this conversation.

The medical aesthetic market is expected to grow more than 10% annually through 2026. Aesthetics is a dynamic industry, which must continually adapt and evolve with changing habits and shifting cultural norms. As an industry we need to help practitioners and the industry prepare for the future by supporting the evolving needs of patients. The ‘wild west’ of aesthetics in the UK needs addressing, we constantly talk of overfilling, unnatural results, and botched procedures. Aesthetics should be regulated and safe for all patients and we should all be pulling the industry up by setting safe standards. Unless we work to change things together, we are approaching a future in which our beauty standard evolves to an ever more expensive ideal, further increasing the opportunity gap between the North and South.

DR LUBNA KHAN-SALIM

Dr Lubna Khan-Salim is an aesthetic surgeon and owner of Time To Bloom Skin, Health and Longevity Clinic in Yorkshire. She trained and practiced in plastic surgery before moving into cosmetic aesthetics. Undertaking rigorous training in specialist posts including internal medicine, burns, microsurgery, hand surgery, skin cancer and surgical dermatology during her time in the NHS, she is a member of the Royal College of Surgeons of England. Dr Khan-Salim practices ‘Biomimetic Aesthetics’ - beauty aligned with nature. She believes in the power of epigenetics and lifestyle factors such as nutrition, sleep, stress management, and supplements to achieve healthy skin.