NEWS AND ANALYSIS

DHSC responds to Impact of Body Image on Mental and Physical Health report

The Health and Social Care Committee’s report, the impact of body image on mental and physical health published in August 2022, called for ministers to speed up the introduction of a licensing regime after hearing evidence of the dangers posed by non-surgical cosmetic procedures to vulnerable groups.

Although the delayed Government’s response, published on February 2 by the Department of Health and Social Care (DHSC), said the scale of the work required meant it would not be able to meet the recommended time frame, it showed a commitment to developing a new license for non-surgical practice in England, as well as setting new mandatory standards for aesthetic practice, education and training as part of a new licensing scheme in England by July 2023.

Ministers rejected recommendations to make dermal fillers available as prescription-only substances, in line with Botox®, and to ensure specific premises standards for all premises that provide non-surgical cosmetic procedures, after hearing about such procedures regularly being carried out in places which some characterised as ‘filthy’.

“It is extremely disappointing that the Government has failed to recognise the urgent need for greater protection for vulnerable groups seeking non-surgical cosmetic procedures,” said Health and Social Care Committee chair Steve Brine MP. “The delay leaves people at risk of exploitation and we urge the Government to deliver the regulation that is necessary now. “The Government’s approach in putting the onus on an individual to find a ‘reputable’ provider of non-surgical cosmetic procedures in place of regulation and legislation that would protect the consumer is badly thought through.”

However, the Government demonstrated its commitment to developing a new license for non-surgical practice in England and will set new mandatory standards for aesthetic practice, education, and training, as part of a new licensing scheme in England by July 2023.

A statement from the Joint Council of Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) said the organisation will work with the Government to inform the design and implementation of the promised licensing regime for non-surgical cosmetic procedures in England to prevent the exploitation of vulnerable people.

“We are delighted that many of the key issues raised in our representation to the Select Committee have been supported by the DHSC,” said JCCP chair Prof David Sines CBE. “The Government has advised that ‘We will continue to work with relevant stakeholders to ensure consumers can make safe and informed choices about any cosmetic procedure they may choose to undergo’. The JCCP welcomes this offer and will commit to working closely with the Government and other relevant regulatory bodies during the forthcoming months, to realise the key objective of embedding patient safety and public protection for members of the public who elect to engage with nonsurgical procedures within the context of a robust, effective, and ‘fit for purpose’ licensing scheme in England’.”

The JCCP believes, however, that other additional measures are required to supplement the proposed licensing system:

• The need for extended powers to be given to the Care Quality Commission (CQC) to inspect all premises where invasive procedures that are included in the license are to be performed and to seek an assurance that the CQC will develop a memorandum of understanding with local authority licensing organisations to perform an integrated and enhanced scheme of regulation for aesthetics.

• The implementation of a national register of approved qualifications and approved education and training providers and assurances that Ofqual will only approve qualifications in the future that meet the new Government standard for education and training for the aesthetics sector.

• Greater controls on the manufacture, supply and administration of Dermal Fillers.

• The Minister is requested to write to all Professional Regulatory Bodies who have responsibility for prescribing to seek assurance that they will enforce guidance to ensure that remote prescribing is not performed in the aesthetics sector.

• The design and implementation of a Government enforced system of annual data collection on types of aesthetic treatments, numbers of practitioners, premises, training courses and complications to inform the evidence base of a robust system of public protection in the UK.

• The legal enforcement of the requirement for all practitioners to have an appropriate level of medical indemnity insurance and to provide a transparent redress scheme for service users.

• National scrutiny and action to prevent the promotion through social media of unsafe, unethical and exaggerated messaging about products, education, training and aesthetic service provision.

The Government response also rejected several recommendations from MPs aimed at tackling obesity, including a call for a dedicated eating disorder strategy and annual holistic health and wellbeing assessments for every child and young person. Further, the Government could not commit to the introduction of restrictions on multibuy deals for foods and drinks high in fat, salt, or sugar, including buy-one-get-onefree. Instead, the Government response pointed to existing measures.

Check out the industry’s reaction to this news on page 14.

BABTAC launches consumer safety campaign, TIME, at Parliament

As safety and legislation discussions continue within the beauty and aesthetics industry, the British Association of Beauty and Cosmetology (BABTAC) has launched its first consumer safety initiative.

The campaign, known by the abbreviation TIME, was unveiled at a conference at the Houses of Parliament in late January. It is supported by MPs and key industry bodies including the British Beauty Council.

TIME acts as a regulatory checklist, designed to give clients a framework through which they can understand and remember the key things to ask their beauty therapist pre-treatment. The aim is to ensure they get the best experience and results, as well as to minimise any risks.

The need for such initiatives is clear from recent research by both BABTAC and Beauty Backed Trust, which suggested that over half of consumers believe the beauty industry is fully regulated when it is not.

The four components of the TIME checklist are: TRAINING – What training and qualifications, including continual professional development (CPD), do you and all your staff have?
INSURANCE – Are you insured, and by whom? MONITORING – Do you carry out important pre and post appointment processes such as patch tests, consultations, and aftercare?
EVIDENCE – Can you provide certified proof of training and insurance and client testimonials?

The BABTAC campaign is designed with beauty therapists in mind, although the framework could easily be incorporated into an aesthetics business to bring greater peace of mind to clients.

Aesthetic doctors can also help spread the message by making clients aware of the TIME checklist and the importance of fit-for-purpose qualifications when visiting beauty therapists alongside aesthetic treatments.

“We’re so pleased to be launching the TIME initiative, with the support of some key leaders in the beauty sector,” says the chair at BABTAC, Lesley Blair MBE. “Lack of regulation in our industry means that consumers are being exposed to potentially unsafe situations all too often, and we’ve seen a wave of ‘botched’ beauty treatments in recent years as a result. This regulatory checklist aims to serve as a simple but effective reminder for consumers to help them choose evidence-based, fit-for-purpose services, while minimising any risk.”

Emma McCance appointed as a formulation chemist for SpectrumX

As part of plans to expand its in-house technical team, SpectrumX has appointed Emma McCance as a formulation chemist.

McCance will be responsible for developing and optimising product formulations for the UK-based healthcare and pharmaceutical company. Specifically, she will focus on developing the business’ proprietary formulation of stabilised hypochlorous acid (HOCl) for skincare.

SpectrumX is looking to develop a HOCl-based cosmetic line, with the skincare ingredient gaining popularity due to its purposed benefits for conditions such as acne, eczema and psoriasis.

In the appointment announcement, the company announced its intentions to build a robust in-house technical team with a deep knowledge of molecular compounds. McCance thus brings a breadth of expertise in product development and quality control.

With more than six years of experience as a chemist, McCance joins SpectrumX from MPM ConsumerProducts Ltd, a manufacturerof household and personal care products, where she worked as a formulation chemist forcosmetics. She holds a BSc in Chemistry from the University of Huddersfield.

In her new role, McCance will focus especially on product performance, safety, and efficacy. She will also source ingredients, create prototypes, scale products for manufacture and ensure that products meet the necessary regulatory requirements. McCance will report to SpectrumX’s technical manager, Annaliese Waite.

“I am excited to join SpectrumX and to contribute to the development of safe, effective cosmetics products based on the novel properties of HOCl,” said Emma McCance in a press statement. “The cosmetics industry is just beginning to scratch the surface on what HOCl can bring to the cosmetics market, and I look forward to combining my expertise with SpectrumX’s scientific breakthroughs to bring this innovation to market.”

UK Nurse struck off for illegally administering dermal filler in Ireland

A UK-registered nurse has been barred from practising in Britain after being found guilty of misrepresenting his right to administer dermal filler injections in Ireland.

In Ireland, only qualified doctors and dentists are permitted to administer botulinum toxin, although Irish qualified nurses can inject dermal fillers. However, as a UK-registered nurse, Parker was unauthorised to supply or inject either botulinum toxin or dermal fillers in the country.

Parker’s misconduct case was heard by the British Nursing and Midwifery Council Fitness to Practice Committee on 18-19 January 2023.

The committee found Parker guilty of the unauthorised supply or sale of medication in the Republic of Ireland and of misrepresenting both his prescribing rights in the country and the status of the seized medication.

Parker was also charged with being dishonest about his prescribing rights in Ireland and was accused of attempting to mislead officials about whether the medication boxes seized at Dublin Airport in 2018 were empty.

The committee thus adjudicated: “In light of the above, your fitness to practise is impaired by reason of your misconduct.”

Multiple Milton Keynes beauty clinics caught offering underage injectables

As part of a campaign by Milton Keynes City Council, a total of 23 Milton Keynes based beauty clinics have been caught offering illegal lip filler and botulinum toxin injections to underage teenagers.

An undercover sting operation by Trading Standards identified numerous clinics that failed to complete any kind of age verification checks prior to accepting the bookings. Only two businesses asked for the customer’s date of birth, and one then continued with the reservation despite the details indicating the individual was 17 years old.

In response, the council has issued a strong warning to all clinics in the area, demanding they bring their practices in line with legal requirements. The businesses will also be closely monitored by officers to ensure compliance.

According to the parliamentary group (APPG) on beauty, aesthetics and wellbeing, almost a million botulinum toxin injections are carried out every year in the UK. However, it’s a criminal offence to administer botulinum toxin or filler treatments for cosmetic purposes to anyone under the age of 18.

92% of girls surveyed would seek aesthetic treatments regardless of legality

A study by the Safety in Beauty Campaign has reemphasised suggestions that reality TV shows are driving interest in aesthetic treatments among teenagers.

After watching recent seasons of Love Island, 87% of the 15–18-year-old girls surveyed said they would want aesthetic treatments after being influenced by contestants on the show.

Most concerningly, 92% of the girls surveyed stated they would seek treatment irrespective of it being legally allowed or not, meaning they were prepared to lie to get access to the treatment or provider.

The findings are likely to reanimate conversations around young peoples’ selfimage, especially the body image and mental health of young and impressionable reality TV show viewers.

Furthermore, while the popularity of cosmetic procedures in the UK continues to grow year-on-year, there is a noticeable spike in demand for certain procedures within certain age groups when shows such as Love Island go on air.

For example, in another survey by Safety In Beauty, conducted on 100 UK-based women, the most popular enhancements searched for after watching Love Island were lip fillers, hair extensions, and breast augmentation. Permanent makeup, cosmetic nose enhancements, and fat reduction treatments also showed increased demand.

Thérapie Clinics announces first aesthetics clinic opening in New York City

Thérapie MedicalGroup, which has a network of clinics across Ireland and the UK, has announced that it is expanding into the United States. The company is set to open its first aesthetics clinic in New York City in March 2023. The new c. 2,7000 sq. ft. clinic is situated in NewYork’s Flatiron district. It will offer a range of medical aesthetics treatments including laser hairremoval, cosmetic injections, body, and skin treatments.

The announcement comes as Thérapie Medical Group reported revenue of more than €100 million in 2022, up from €65 million in 2021.This is, in part, due to eight new clinic openings, including a modern ophthalmology surgery in Carrickmines, Dublin.

For 2023, the group is focusing on the further rollout of moreThérapie Clinics in Ireland, the UK and the US, as well as expanding on the successfull aunch of Thérapie Fertility. So far, it has raised €30 million of debt capital to support this growth, which includes the opening in the Flatiron District of New York City.

New survey suggests enduring uncertainty within the wider beauty industry

Inthe National Hair & Beauty Federation’s (NHBF) latest State of the Industry quarterly survey, data suggests that the trade body’s sectoris slowly recovering but further governmental support is required to ensure business survival and future growth.

In particular, the survey demonstrates that there’s an enduring sense of anxiety with in the broader beauty industry. This has been exacerbated by a climate of rising energy and business costs, which is familiar to aesthetic business owners. Compared to the last NHBF State of the Industry survey in September2022, slightly more businesses (25%, up from 19% in September) reported making either a smallor substantial loss; slightly fewer are making a small or good profit (30%, downfrom 35%) and 44% are breaking even.

Evolus announces positive interim results in Phase II trials for “extra-strength” formulation of Jeuveau®

Evolus has announced interim results from its Phase IItrials, demonstrating its “extra-strength”formulation of Jeuveau® at 40U (units) achieved a duration profile of six months or 26 weeks.

The data was presented at the 2023 International Master Course on Aging Science (IMCAS) World Congress in Paris.

The three metrics presentedwere: the time it takes for patients to return to their baseline Glabellar Line Scale (GLS) score after the irtreatment; time back to baseline for patients with a response of none or mild on the GLS; and the duration of effect of at least a one-point GLS improvement.

An interim analysis was also performed to assess the safety and efficacy of the “extrastrength” formulation. The adverse events profile across all three arms was similar. The severity rating demonstrated that 88% of the events were mild and 12% were moderate. No serious adverse events were reported.