SKIN OF COLOUR

THE SKIN-OF-COLOUR TREATMENT EDIT

Which technologies, treatments and homecare products perform best for melanin-rich skin? Kezia Parkins asks seven practitioners to share the options they return to, the science behind their choices and the protocols they use to minimise inflammation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

Treating skin of colour safely requires more than selecting a device marketed for all Fitzpatrick types. Diagnosis, wavelength, pulse duration, energy, treatment depth and aftercareall influence the inflammatory response and the risk of pigmentary change. Here, each expert identifies a trusted option and explains how they adapt it in practice.

NADIA AMENIAN

Award winning facialist, Taktouk Clinic

Favourite treatment: My go-to is a bespoke facial using HydraFacial as a base, then building on it with oxygen, exfoliation and, sometimes, a light peel. For homecare, I like ZO Skin Health Brightalive, an arbutin and kojic acid-based lotion, and SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF or Silymarin CF.

Why it works: Bespoke facials allow me to customise exfoliation, carry out light extractions where needed and flood the skin with hydration. Brightalive can help to brighten the skin and address pigmentation without the downtime associated with stronger actives. Silymarin CF is useful for oilier or combination skin, where finding a vitamin C product that does not feel congesting can be difficult.

Treatment protocol: I adjust the HydraFacial vacuum strength so the treatment is not too abrasive. If microneedling is appropriate, I may combine it with a skin booster containing ingredients such as glutathione and tranexamic acid. I usually recommend three to six sessions, spaced four to six weeks apart.

Tips for skin of colour: Every skin must be assessed first. I start conservatively, often at 0.25 mm or 0.5 mm for microneedling, then build according to tolerance. Keep homecare simple: a serum and SPF in the morning, followed by a thorough cleanse and a concern-led treatment serum in the evening.

HANNAH MARSHALL

Facialist and founder, Nuwave Clinic

Favourite treatment: Revision Skincare’s D•E•J BioStim Treatment Solution is a topical, non-injectable biostimulator and one of my favourite treatments. Its multi-acid delivery system creates temporary micro-fissures in the epidermis, allowing antioxidant phytoacids to reach the papillary dermis, where they support new collagen and elastin production.

Why it works: The research reflects what I am seeing in clinic, with improvements in fine lines, laxity, smoothness and radiance. Importantly, the 12-week clinical study included Fitzpatrick skin types I to V, with no treatment-related adverse events or cases of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation reported. I love seeing higher Fitzpatrick skin types properly represented in clinical research. It should be standard.

Treatment protocol: I perform BioStim as a course of three to four treatments, two weeks apart. The treatment is comfortable and there is essentially no downtime, so clients can return to their normal activities. They also receive a Revision Skincare aftercare package to use at home, helping to support the skin between appointments and maximise the results of the course.

Tips for skin of colour: For skin of colour, I pay close attention to whether the evidence includes higher Fitzpatrick types and reports pigment-related adverse events, rather than assuming a treatment is suitable for everyone. The inclusion of Fitzpatrick I to V in this study is important because patients with melanin-rich skin are still too often missing from clinical research.

DR VANITA RATTAN

Doctor and founder of SkincareByDrV

Favourite treatment: One of my favourite at-home exfoliators for acne-prone skin of colour is Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. I particularly like the simple formula: 2% salicylic acid with green tea, without the fragrance, essential oils or drying alcohols I try to avoid in pigmentation-prone skin.

Why it works: I want to treat breakouts without creating unnecessary irritation because inflammation can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and leave a dark mark long after the breakout has resolved. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it works inside the pore to help clear excess sebum and congestion. This makes it useful for blackheads, whiteheads, breakouts, enlarged pores and oily skin, while green tea helps soothe the skin.

Treatment protocol: Apply it after cleansing, leave it on and follow with a gentle moisturiser. Because this is an at-home leave-on product rather than an in-clinic treatment, there is no set number of sessions. Consistent use over several weeks is more relevant.

Tips for skin of colour: Use exfoliating acids at night rather than before sun exposure and avoid layering several exfoliating acids together. Over-exfoliation can compromise the barrier and create inflammation, which is exactly what we want to minimise in pigmentation-prone skin. Daily mineral sunscreen is essential.

DR RICHARD DEVINE

Aesthetic doctor, Devine Clinic

Favourite treatment: Two of my favourite treatments for skin of colour are BroadBand Light (BBL) therapy, and MOXI Laser. BBL can be used in appropriately selected patients up to Fitzpatrick skin type V, while MOXI can be used across Fitzpatrick skin types I to VI. This gives us options to create an individual plan based on the patient’s skin tone and the concern being treated.

Why it works: MOXI can improve overall skin quality, uneven tone, pigmentation and texture, creating a smoother and more refined appearance with little downtime. BBL can target pigmentation, uneven tone and redness in appropriately selected skin types. With skin of colour, we must remain mindful of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so the ability to tailor treatment carefully is important.

Treatment protocol: Depending on the concern, I generally recommend around three MOXI treatments, spaced four to six weeks apart, followed by maintenance as needed. For suitable patients, BBL and MOXI can be combined to address pigmentation and uneven tone while improving texture and overall skin quality.

Tips for skin of colour: Correct patient assessment and conservative treatment parameters are essential. I consider Fitzpatrick skin type, pigmentation history, recent sun exposure and the specific concern before selecting a technology. The key with darker skin tones is not to treat more aggressively, but to choose the right technology and settings for that individual skin.

TERESA O’NWERE-TAN

Nurse and founder, Tan&Co®

Favourite treatment: My favourite device for melanin-rich skin is the Aerolase Neo Elite, a 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser. It has become one of my most-used technologies because I can treat active acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, redness, pseudofolliculitis and ingrown hairs, unwanted hair and overall skin rejuvenation.

Why it works: The device uses a 650-microsecond pulse duration, allowing energy to be delivered quickly while limiting excess heating of the surrounding skin. This matters because one of my biggest considerations is minimising unnecessary inflammation and the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Depending on the concern, patients may see calmer inflammation, more even-looking pigmentation, improved clarity and smoother skin, generally with minimal downtime and no numbing.

Treatment protocol: A typical course is three to six treatments, usually two to four weeks apart, although this is always individualised. For pigmentation, particularly melasma, I do not rely on laser alone. I combine treatment with meticulous SPF, barrier support and pigment-regulating ingredients such as azelaic acid and other tyrosinase inhibitors. Where appropriate, I may also incorporate red or near-infrared LED or regenerative treatments.

Tips for skin of colour: I assess Fitzpatrick type, the underlying condition, inflammation, pigment history and tendency towards PIH before selecting parameters. With melasma and PIH, I favour controlled, gradual improvement rather than aggressively chasing pigment in one session. Success depends on understanding melanin, inflammation and the skin’s response to energy, then tailoring treatment accordingly.

DR TEGO KIRNON-JACKMAN

Medical aesthetic doctor and medical director SKINMENU

Favourite treatment: Picosecond laser is one of my favourite treatments for skin of colour, particularly for hyperpigmentation. I favour 1064 nm in darker skin types because there is lower absorption by epidermal melanin than with shorter wavelengths. Pico is rarely the only modality I use. Chemical peels, microneedling, Laser Genesis and resurfacing lasers can also have a role, depending on the concern.

Why it works: Picosecond lasers deliver energy in extremely short pulses, in trillionths of a second, with a significant photoacoustic rather than purely photothermal effect. This disrupts pigment particles, which can then be cleared through the body’s natural processes. There is still thermal interaction, so I would not describe pico as heat-free, but the short pulse duration limits the time available for heat to diffuse into surrounding tissue.

Treatment protocol: For pigmentation, approximately four to six sessions may be recommended, with results developing progressively. I may layer pico with Laser Genesis when targeting pigmentation alongside redness, texture and overall skin quality, or combine it strategically with chemical peels. Treatment choice depends on the diagnosis, skin history and concern.

Tips for skin of colour: For patients prone to hyperpigmentation, I often prepare the skin with a tyrosinase inhibitor and a tailored routine that may include antioxidants, retinoids and chemical exfoliants where appropriate. I start with conservative laser parameters and adjust to the patient’s skin and response. Skin of colour is not one skin type, so every plan must be individualised.

DR AHMED EL MUNTASAR

GP and founder, The Aesthetics Doctor

Favourite treatment: Two treatments I particularly like for skin of colour are Matrix Pro and XERF. Matrix Pro combines microneedling with controlled radiofrequency energy and is useful for acne scarring, enlarged pores, uneven texture, fine lines and early skin laxity. XERF is a non-invasive monopolar radiofrequency treatment that I use when the priority is tightening and lifting without needles or conventional downtime.

Why it works: When treating more melanated skin, my priority is to achieve a meaningful result while respecting its response to injury and inflammation. Darker skin tones can be more susceptible to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation following excessive inflammation or epidermal trauma. Neither Matrix Pro nor XERF relies on a laser wavelength that intentionally targets melanin, which makes them valuable options when the concern is texture, scarring, laxity or collagen loss rather than pigment itself. Matrix Pro creates controlled micro-injury and delivers RF energy into the dermis to stimulate collagen remodelling. It can deliver energy at up to three selected depths in one insertion, giving me precise control. XERF uses 6.78 MHz and 2 MHz radiofrequency across shallow, middle and deeper tissue levels. Integrated cooling helps protect and regulate the skin surface while I tailor the depth of heating to the treatment goal.

Treatment protocol: A Matrix Pro session usually takes around 45 to 60 minutes. Some patients notice improvement after one treatment, but I generally recommend a course of around three for more significant acne scarring or textural change. XERF takes approximately 30 to 60 minutes, depending on whether I am treating the face alone or extending onto the neck. Some patients achieve a good result from one treatment, while others may benefit from a second. With both treatments, the more important change develops gradually over the following weeks and months as collagen remodels.

Tips for skin of colour: A device being described as suitable for darker skin is only the starting point. Technique still determines how much inflammation and epidermal injury we create. With Matrix Pro, I customise needle depth and energy according to the anatomical area, skin thickness and concern rather than treating the whole face identically. With XERF, I personalise the tissue depth and focus of heating. I also consider ethnicity, skin behaviour, previous pigmentation or scarring and the patient’s tendency towards PIH. Two people with the same Fitzpatrick type may respond very differently, so I begin conservatively and adapt the plan to the individual rather than treating skin of colour as one homogeneous group.

KELLY SAYNOR

Aesthetic nurse, formulator and founder, Prfkt Pro

Favourite treatment For skin of colour, I would have to say The Perfect Peel. It was the first treatment I came across that worked well for my skin. That tells you a lot about how little confidence and representative experience there was at the time. The Perfect Peel combines a blend of exfoliating acids with the antioxidant glutathione and can be used across skin types when the patient has been properly assessed.

Why it works What doesn’t it do? The penny dropped for me when I understood glutathione and its capabilities. Pigmentation is a major concern for many of my brown-skinned patients, and this is where the peel really earns its place. It can help improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation and uneven tone, while also refining texture, decongesting blemish-prone skin and softening fine lines. In my clinic, the conversation is rarely just about ‘antiageing’. I am often treating pigment and skin quality first, then contour and laxity as patients get older. That is why I see it as a real all-rounder.

Treatment protocol The application itself takes around 15 to 20 minutes. A single peel can improve brightness and texture, but for persistent pigmentation, melasma or acne I may recommend a course of up to three treatments, generally spaced four to six weeks apart, depending on the patient and how the skin responds. Visible peeling usually begins at around day three and is generally complete by day seven, so the patient must understand the expected downtime and follow the supplied post-peel instructions carefully.

Tips for skin of colour Treating skin of colour needs careful consideration. I assess the cause of the pigment, active inflammation, barrier health, previous reactions and the patient’s history of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation before treating. A peel being described as suitable for all skin types does not remove the risk of PIH; some patients may benefit from preconditioning, and everyone needs diligent aftercare and daily broad-spectrum SPF. I would rather build results gradually than create avoidable inflammation by trying to do too much in one session.